How to Tell If Your Pokémon Card Is Worth Grading

Before spending money on grading, you need to answer two questions: is this card valuable enough to justify the cost, and is it in good enough condition to score well? Here's how to work through both.

Step 1: Check the Card's Raw Value

Look up recent sold listings on eBay for your card in ungraded condition. Don't look at what people are asking for it. Look at what it actually sold for. Filter by "sold items" and "UK only" to get relevant pricing.

If the card sells for less than £20 raw, grading probably won't make financial sense unless you're expecting a perfect 10 and the graded premium is substantial. For cards in the £20 to £50 range, grading can work but you need a high grade. Above £50 raw, grading almost always adds value if the condition is decent.

Step 2: Check the Graded Premium

Now look up what the same card sells for when graded. Search for "[card name] PSA 10" or "[card name] graded 10" in sold listings. Compare the graded price to the raw price.

If a graded 10 sells for double the raw price or more, the card is a strong grading candidate. If the graded premium is only 20 to 30 percent, you'd need to be very confident in getting a 10 for it to be worth the cost.

Step 3: Honestly Assess the Condition

This is where most people trip up. Everyone thinks their card is a 10 until it comes back as a 7. Here's a quick self-assessment:

Get the card under bright, direct light. A desk lamp works well. Look at it from multiple angles.

Corners: Look at all four corners from the front and back. Any white showing? Even a tiny spec of white on a dark-bordered card means it won't be a 10. On light-bordered cards (like the yellow borders on Pokémon cards), corner wear shows as softness or rounding.

Edges: Run your eye along all four edges. Look for nicks, rough spots, or tiny dents. Feel the edges gently with your fingertip. You can sometimes feel damage you can't see.

Surface: This is the tricky one. Tilt the card slowly under the light. Watch for scratches, they'll catch the light as you tilt. On holographic cards, look for holo scratches (fine lines across the holographic area). Check for print lines too, which are factory defects that look like thin lines running across the card.

Centring: Hold the card at arm's length and look at the borders. Are they even? Most Pokémon cards have a bit of centring variance, but if one border is obviously wider than the other, it'll cost you points.

Step 4: Consider the Card's Popularity

Grading returns are better on cards that people actually want. Charizard, Pikachu, Umbreon, and popular alternate arts will always have buyer demand. A perfect 10 of an obscure common card won't sell for much regardless of the grade.

The Quick Decision Framework

Ask yourself: is the card worth more than £30 raw, would a graded 10 at least double its value, and does it genuinely look flawless to your eye? If yes to all three, submit it. If you're unsure on any of them, think twice.